Aussie in the boot: Lazio

I am spending six months travelling around Italy. I am staying with hosts around the country, WWOOFING (World Wide Opportunities on Organic Farms). Learning, sharing and creating great connections. There will be ups and downs, but I have my yoga mat packed and a 560g jar of Vegemite, so I’m ready to take it all on. 

Region: Lazio

Host: Oro dei quiriti

“A great goodbye to Italy”

Léa and I were picked up at the train station by Pompilio, our new host and a very kind man. He doesn’t really speak English but he was able to speak some French with Léa. We arrived at a small village where the house stands, on the edge of a little piazza. Pompilio gave us a quick tour of the house and we met the Mother of Pompilio, Rosina. There are rumours around the town about her age. The locals say that it’s between 85 and 92 (later confirmed to be 87). After unpacking our bags and settling in, we ran into the other wwoofers as they walked up the stairs. Two English guys, very kind, Steve and Toby. They had been on a bike tour and rode to the farm from their home in the UK!

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The house is located in a small village. There are several blocks of farming land owned, all within 10 minutes of the house. They grow kiwi fruit, tomatoes, olives, grapes, zucchini, potatoes, beans, plums and more!

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Rosina was making pizza for our first dinner, I figured that it was a good time for a friendly reminder that the two of us are vegan. This caused a bit of stress as Rosina also speaks no English. Neither Rosina nor Pompilio could really grasp the idea of veganism… This raised a bit of a red flag. Luckily for this dinner, all we had to do was use a fork to shift all the anchovies to one-half of the pizzas before she placed them in the oven. The pizza was super yummy, crisp, rectangular and roman style!

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Its an early start for work, 5:30 am wake up and we head to the farm in an old panda with Rosina. She works very hard and we follow! We stop work when she gets hot. The work so far has been clearing the aggressive wild raspberries from around the kiwi.

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“All villages have a castle, houses and then a fence” This is something that Pompilio shared with me on our way to the town in the centre of Italy, Rieti. I spent my first Saturday hiking in the mountains of Rieti with the hiking group that Pompilio is apart of. It was a great experience, although the other group members kept trying to convince me to use the hiking sticks which to me felt very unnecessary, it did make them all look very professional.  After the hike, we went to a cheese factory in Rieti to collect six barrels of whey. Pompilio later explained to us that he uses this as a way to encourage good bacteria as well as protein for the plants.

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They have a strange ritual at lunchtime after making the pasta. They add about 4 kg of sugar to the hot water and stir it to dissolve it. They then divide it into 6 old milk bottles and take it to the farm the next day for the plants!?!? Pompilio also later explained that this is used in combination with the whey and olive oil to create a full food for the bacteria, sugar, protein and fat.

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On Sunday we all headed to a river for a swim. Pompilio said that it’s the purest water in Italy. We trekked through the strong flowing stream. Our feet began to get sore and Steve was ready to turn back so we decided to stop, we found a small sandbank and spent the day playing in the water, floating down on blow-up mattresses and skipping rocks.

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Pompilio has begun to work on the farm with us as he is on holidays from his normal job as a university teacher. When we return home from work Rosina makes lunch, she is looking after us with food. Like an Italian Nonna. Though I feel that our veganism causes her stress as it restricts her from being able to express her love through her cooking. After lunch, the heat and tiredness takes us out.

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I have been the translator … to be honest it makes me feel good. It’s funny that all it takes to feel successful at a language is to be surrounded by others that speak no word of it.

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We wake up in the morning at 5:30 am, have breakfast (ish) and get straight to work. The work has been chopping trees for firewood as well as clearing a space for the sheep to come. Work is finished at 11:00 am and it gets really hot. We shower and help with lunch. After lunch, we sleep… Lèa and I have been chatting and watching movies as well in this time, it is too hot to do anything else. Before dinner, Lèa and I have been doing a bit of yoga practice on the roof as the sun goes down. Dinner is at 9 pm-ish. It is very traditional here and it’s kind of expected that Lèa and I, as females, help in the kitchen. We are slightly bothered by this. Of course, we are happy to help and keen to learn, just offended by the gender stereotypes as the boys are never asked.

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After a tough morning of work, clearing trees again (also I am really struggling with the sexism), Lea and I headed down a bushy path. After some walking, it opened up to a small river! We stripped off our work clothes and immersed ourselves in the cool, flowing water. It was a perfect moment, making memories!! We have been really having a great time together. We have worked out how to connect with each other, Lea says the reason for our original clashes was due to our extreme similarities. After a beautiful swim, we followed the path back up, passing through a field of fig trees. We picked off some free figs and ate them! They were delicious and it was a perfect moment.

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We returned to Rosina cooking fresh pasta. I went to set the table and was immediately stopped, she would not let me put plates out. After some communication attempts, I understood that she wanted us to eat off of a big wooden board.

They explained to us that it is the way the poor people ate the pasta. Without meat and on a big wooden share board. Because Lèa and I are vegan, the fresh pasta was also made without eggs, they said that this makes it extra poor pasta!! It was absolutely delicious and beautiful sharing moment. The simple tomato sauce was absolute perfection!

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“I often feel like a Christmas tree when I travel” — Léa 2019

The new American woofer arrived, his name is Jeremy and I have a great feeling about him, he seems like a really kind-hearted guy. He also speaks fluent Italian which is a big help for us all. Léa, Jeremy and I practised yoga on the roof.

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Pompilio is always telling stories, at dinner, at work (when he is in a good mood) and on our hikes. Sometimes they are very long, which can be tough is you lose the trail early on, due to the language barrier.

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We had the morning off work (working instead in the afternoon) because Pompilio and Rosina were going to Rome. We got to sleep in and it was amazing! Lea and I spent the morning at our River of Eve and had a delicious Fig filled breakfast under the trees. When we got back home we had a picnic lunch on our bed, chickpeas, Vegemite, rice crackers, tomatoes and zucchini.

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The smell of cheesy Dorito leaves is what keeps us going. We have now been working on clearing trees and bushes and old metal scraps for a number of days. Still in attempt to erect some sort of fence for sheep that are to come in September.

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Along my journey, I have collected things from people and places. Clothes, stickers and gadgets. Yet I have less luggage than when I left, how is this possible? It sounds like a high school maths question.

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Finished the fence and we are naming the sheep after us. The whole group skinny dipping and eating figs. Overtime wwoofing has really become everything that I thought it might be.

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Tough goodbyes with Lea. A lifetime of emotions in the space of two weeks. She left a beautiful note under my pillow! Such a beautiful friendship. It feels like I’m really on my own again. I felt her absence for a while after she left, not knowing how I would cope on my own and questioning my journey ahead.

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We went for another Saturday hike. This time it was up to the mountain of Rome. In the winter it is ski slopes. The mountains were free of trees. They were covered in green grass and rugged rocks. I think that it is my new favourite place in Italy. On top of the mountain, there was a beautiful Refugio where you can get coffee and upstairs there are 12 beds!

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So Lea leaving seems to have broken down the vegan wall. I am now not being fed in the same way at all… after lunch, I had to head down to the fig orchard to fill up my tummy! Without the company of Lea anymore, I decided to head out with Jeremy and Steve to the bar after dinner. We had many laughs and we played in the park! I got home at 2 am … so wild.

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We had a big sleep in after the late-night… Steve and I decided to go for a ride. Steve’s friend Toby had decided to fly home and he left his bike (they were doing a bike tour). We rode around beautiful towns. We strapped a Tupperware container on the back of the bike to collect fruit that we found along the way. We would pull over when we spotted fruit, jump off the bikes and grab a few handfuls. Figs, apricots, wild mulberries, peaches. It was a beautiful morning!!

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I have been completely neglected in terms of food now that Lèa is gone. Each time that we have come down for lunch or dinner, I have been told that I can’t eat the food because it has egg or meat. They have said that I can just eat the bread or tomatoes. I have stood up for myself and said that I need some vegetables and beans to cook. I am very happy to fend for myself in terms of cooking, I just want some warning… I am glad that I have some good friends here, Jeremy and Steve, and I am able to find fruit all around!

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The three of us decided to go for a run in the afternoon. It was really awesome! After the run, we headed down to the fig field for some snacks. We had lots of figs and plums. I ran across the field for one last fig, I could see one high in the tree and I felt that I could reach it. I pulled on the branch and swung out to grab the fig … the big branch snapped and I fell to the ground! I felt awful as it was almost half the tree. We have decided to wait a few days before going back for figs …

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After some more tough food situations, being completely disregarded in meals, the boys and I decided it was time to speak up or I would have to leave. We approached Pompilio (Jeremy being the translator) and told him that I haven’t been treated correctly in terms of meals and provided foods. We also raised the point that he shouldn’t have it advertised no the woofing site that he can accommodate vegans if this is how they would be treated. Pompilio was very kind and said that we can make a list of what I need and he will buy it. He also expressed that he and his mum Rosina aren’t familiar with veganism and are unsure how to navigate it, therefore they will delete it from the woofing site.

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We had the morning off work again as Pompilio was going out (we work in the afternoon instead). So Steve and I decided to go for a ride in the morning and find some fruits for breakfast. There were so many amazing roads. We found cherries, plums, pears and limes. We got lost a few times and the ride ended up being about 50km!! We were hungry and dehydrated, we were saved by a farmer that filled up our water bottles at his fountain. My motivation was the hope of gnocchi at home when we returned. When we finally made it back, there was gnocchi on the table!!

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I am beginning to get some anxious feelings about what is to come. There isn’t long until I leave for India and it is bringing up a lot of worries. There is just a lot of unknown to navigate. I am also concerned about everything playing out. This will be only my second time flying alone and I have 3 flights in a row!! I also hope that they let me out of the country smoothly, considering all of the messing around at immigration.

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We had Thursday off so that we could go for another hike up the other side of the mountain of Rome. The mountain was amazing. A lot more rough terrain this time, a much steeper climb. I hadn’t had anything for breakfast and on the walk, I was getting very tired and hungry, we had also gotten up at 5:30 am. We ended up getting home for lunch at 5:30 pm!! We had stopped at the supermarket and Pompilio let me get some vegan things… vegetable milk, rice crackers, nuts, soy yogurt, tofu and they have beans for me to use!

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Now with some food supplies, I was able to have some breakfast! I had so much more energy after actually having some food in the morning. It had been about a week of no food in the morning and it’s amazing how sluggish that makes me.

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We spent our Friday morning working on multiple different parts of the property that Pompilio owns around the town. An olive orchard, a vineyard and the kiwi orchard. During work, Pompilio called me incredible, strong and a girl for marriage. I’m hoping that my feminism is starting to rub off on him and he is noticing that women can do jobs that he considers “men’s work”. While driving back from one of the properties, the three of use, Jeremy, Steve and I, used the Panda as a getaway car. Jer jumped out and grabbed peaches and plums from trees that we passed! It was such a rush. We really have become fruit hunters.

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In the afternoons, with the lack of Lèa company, I have been getting sad. I’m not sure if it’s because I’m in a transition period, coming down from the whole high and action of the 6 months in Italy or something else. The great thing is that I have been getting really close with Jeremy, we get along very well and this really energises me.

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On Sunday Steve and I braved it out in the afternoon heat to go for another fruit hunt on the bikes! We find a loop around the towns that allowed us to collect a whole bag full each!

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It feels very strange to be quite active very early in the morning. 5 hours of physical labour, have lunch and then crash until at least 6 pm… it really throws the body and the kind out. It is just way too hot to do anything in the second half of the day, especially without airconditioning or a water source. After 6 pm we have often been going for a run or a ride and then doing some yoga, all before dinner. After dinner, we then sleep again … it’s an unusual pattern.

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I had a really great conversation with Pompilio at dinner time. I felt like we really understood each other’s views on veganism. I explained my reasons for the lifestyle, saying that it’s for the good of the planet and that the quality of animal products isn’t great in 2019. He was completely on board and said that this is why he does organic farming and wants to raise and eat his own animals. He also said that people are currently very detached from their food. We aligned on many points. I told him that I respect everything that he is doing. It was a great bonding over dinner!

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I thought that I was getting through to Pompilio, opening his mind the possibility that women and men could be equal. Yet after some quick work on the farm, I was taken back to the house. I’m assuming that due to my genitals, I am unable to be considered as an option for the farm work. Instead, I was asked to clean the house …

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Jeremy has moved into my room! We are having a great time together. Lots of bonding. He has made me very excited and proud about being gay! We have shared stories and had many long chats. We have also been having movie nights and yoga sessions together.

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Even though I am not entirely happy with how some things are run on this farm and in the house, in some moments Pompilio and I really get along! I feel that he is really attempting to help me. We went to run some errands and I asked if we could get gelato.. he said that he is really good at making it. The main ingredient, Panne (a thick cream) is obviously not vegan. At the supermarket, he also bought a vegan Penne made from oats! In the night we made gelato in the Thermomix!! It was watermelon flavour, made with frozen watermelon from the farm. It was delicious, Pompilio wasn’t so convinced with the oat cream.

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I have been doing a lot of cooking for myself now and it’s really great! I have also been trying to make the flavours as foreign as possible… I’m a bit over the Italian food at this point. As many vegetables as possible! Chickpeas, tofu, soy sauce, cumin, mashed potatoes with vegan cream whipped in, soaked oats with fresh peach. So many goodies!!

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There have been many ups and downs at this farm, with food and gender roles… I know by now that a great farm stay is made by the other volunteers. That’s why at this farm, I feel so blessed to have met Jeremy. We have been having a really fun time together. We think Pompilio must assume we are a couple … whilst we were working, he separated us, this has happened a few times. Sometimes it really feels like high school!

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Many emotions have been bubbling to the surface as India rapidly approaches. I have been excited for a change of country for a few months now, yet with only a few days to go, I am feeling anxious. It is uncomfortable when I have spent the past 6 months in Italy, I have now learnt the ins and outs of this country and how to travel it and that is all about to be flipped.

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Jer and I went for a bike ride into one of the towns in search of gelato. It as super hot and we had borrowed a bike from the farm as well as Toby’s old bike. The one from the farm was really dodgy and Jer and I were concerned about our safety. The main thing is that we managed to find gelato! It was my last gelato in Italy.

I also feel the need to share that I haven’t been putting as much detail in my recent blog posts because the longer I have been on this journey, the more that I’m immersed in my time at the place with the people that I am sharing with.

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Rosina arrived home from France, she had been on a religious trip. She gave us little bottles of holy water! Bless. I thought that it was very kind of her.

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For my last day, we worked in the afternoon in the kiwi fields. When we were driving home we laughed and made jokes with Pompilio, it felt really great. It was pizza for dinner, as I had requested the day before. I was very full after dinner. It was my last homecooked pizza in Italy and I loved every bite.

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I felt emotional on the train ride to the airport, though I still think that it is going to take some time for the experiences of these six months to sink in. I made it through customs with ease and now I am sitting waiting to board my plane to India. I am writing this blog and not knowing what amazing adventures might be to come. I feel so blessed to have ridden this rollercoaster that was my wwoofing journey in Italy. I have been impacted by so many amazing people. They all started as strangers and now they are all in my story.

See ya, arrivederci.
Kindly, Steph.